TUESDAY
We arrive in Krakow. Poland has always appealed as a country to visit. A large country with a population of about 38 million people, it has an amazing history.
Now a crossroads between eastern and central Europe, it has emerged from Stalin-backed communist rule, not to mention the nightmare of being invaded by Hitler.
At one point in its long history, this fascinating country effectively ceased to exist for over a century. In 1772, Russia, Prussia and Austria divided up the Polish territory. A further partition effectively led to the state of Poland being annexed for 123 years, from 1795. Poland won its independence back in 1918, only to then be targeted by Germany in 1939.
Hitler planned to kill millions of Polish people, take the territory and replace the population with German colonists.
Poland was ‘liberated’ again in 1944, this time by Soviet forces, only to soon enter decades of life as a communist state… up to as recently as 1989. Today, Putin’s shadow hovers.
One can’t but marvel at the resilience of generations of Polish people. Tonight, we marvelled at the beauty of Rynek Główny, the magnificent market square in the ‘Old Town’, where we joined thousands of people who had gathered. An excellent fireworks display and a joyous, friendly atmosphere ushered in 2025. I hope it’s a good year for these wonderful people.
WEDNESDAY
After a long walk through Krakow’s charming streets, we stop for half an hour, taking a table outside an Irish bar. An Irish-American is in full flow with two English visitors at a nearby table, briefly breaking into an Irish rebel song. Now he turns his attention to us.
In his mid-60s, he still has his native Boston drawl, despite moving to live in Dublin 30 years ago. “Where are you guys from?” he asks.
On hearing Roscommon, he pauses, mentions some family connections, but is initially sketchy on the geography. We drill into it a bit, he mentions Athleague, I venture Four Roads.
“Four Roads!” He stands and reaches out for a big handshake. “That’s it! Four Roads! I never thought anyone would say ‘Four Roads’ to me in Krakow, and I’ve been here a few times! That’s amazing!”
THURSDAY
Amy Winehouse’s ‘Back to Black’ drifts evocatively into the cold night air from a restaurant. When I glance at the exterior, there’s a blackboard on a stand with the words ‘FUCK COVID and PUTIN’.
Next door, a plaque on the wall of a residence commemorates Zuzanna Ginczanka, a poet ‘who hid in this place before being murdered’ (by the Nazis).
“I tread a troubled track, My odds are stacked” the wonderful Amy Winehouse sings. Tragically, she died at the age of 27.
When I get home, I Google Zuzanna Ginczanka, where there’s confirmation that she was indeed a poet who became a literary sensation. That was until the SS swooped on her hiding place. She denied being Jewish; they executed her, either by firing squad or by a single bullet. Like Amy Winehouse, she was 27.
FRIDAY
Our journey by bus to Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp took just over an hour. Lots of time to think. Snow-covered trees, cold air, thoughts of the footsteps we’re following.
On arrival, there’s something of the eeriness we felt on visiting Dachau a few years ago. This is much bigger; there’s a main camp and several smaller ones.
After spending a long time queuing, we are bussed to where women prisoners were incarcerated, five to a wooden bunk in a stone block… the conditions stifling, utterly degrading, sucking the life from desperate people, most of whom were already doomed, the only question being when they would die, and how much they would suffer first.
Later, we tour the main camp. ‘Eerie’ doesn’t begin to adequately describe the feeling you get in a building that was used as a gas chamber, where as many as 6,000 men, women and children were killed on a daily basis. In total, about 1.1 million people were executed in the Auschwitz concentration camps/extermination centres from 1942 and 1944. Thoughts of this horror send chills down your spine.
SATURDAY
Outside a café, we’re approached by a friendly man who might qualify for the old ‘man of the road’ idiom. He has a worn rucksack, a slightly weathered plastic cup in hand, and a big smile shapes his face.
Once eye contact is established, we’re briefly best friends. He asks where we’re from, and beams a little more on hearing ‘Ireland’.
He pauses, as though checking folders in his mind. “Ah! Joyce! Joyce?!”
“Yes, James Joyce” I reply, and he’s pleased. He pauses again. Thinking.
“U2? U2?”
We nod.
I was going to name Roy Keane, or even George Best, but all we needed in this moment was the universal language of Joyce and Bono.
I could have mentioned a few Four Roads hurling greats to him but I guess lightning wasn’t likely to strike twice…
SUNDAY
The Oskar Schindler museum tour was excellent. If you visit Kracow, put it on your ‘to do’ list. We had a wonderful guide, a passionate native who infused our experience not just with detail (much of it harrowing) but with passion and emotion too.
MONDAY
Huge crowds are out and about in the ‘Old Town’, with the locals celebrating The Feast of Epiphany (also known as Three Kings’ Day), hundreds attired in paper crowns, a procession underway in the square.
We’ve greatly enjoyed this beautiful city, which is rich in architectural splendour, heritage, history and culture.
The Wawel Royal Castle, which we visited today, is worth exploring. There are countless restaurants, bars and cafes, the people are very friendly, and it felt very safe too.
TUESDAY
There was some snow in Krakow, but it was no colder than -2. We flew back to Shannon Airport in the knowledge that it would actually be to colder conditions (at least by tonight or Wednesday morning).
From occasional online browsing, I was aware that the now customary RTE obsession with upcoming ‘weather events’ continues, a highlight (lowlight?) of which was advice given to people on how to walk when conditions are slippy – as follows: “Walk like a penguin”). Amazing!
WEDNESDAY
Back at work in Abbey Street. There are unconfirmed reports that due to the current very cold weather, visitor numbers at Dublin Zoo are down. Even so, resident penguins there are reportedly very confused today.
